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Underwear Retailing in the UK - Verdict Sector Report

Underwear Retailing in the UK - Verdict Sector Report


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Executive Summary

Growth in the UK underwear market is forecast to pick up in 2015, up 2.8%. This will be driven by an improvement in the UK economy as unemployment falls and earnings growth exceeds inflation, easing pressure on disposable incomes. While a general upswing in consumer confidence will boost consumers' willingness to spend on underwear on a more regular basis rather than on a needs-only basis.

Key Findings

Identify which underwear sub-sectors to invest in by using the five year forecasts for lingerie, nightwear, hosiery and men's daywear and nightwear.

Maximise sales potential by investing in the most important drivers of spend and satisfying consumer shopping habits and shopper journey.

Glean which retailers are gaining market share and why, and use these success factors to inform your business growth strategy.

Drive higher levels of impulse driven purchases rather than replacement driven by targeting the right shoppers and growing ranges of the right product

Synopsis

Value retailers have been the real winners, growing their share of the UK underwear market to 28.1% in 2015 up from 25.4% in 2010. With the economic downturn putting pressure on disposable incomes, consumers shifted their spend to value clothing players lured by their much improved underwear offer and keen price points.

65+ year olds hold the largest share of the UK underwear market. However, expenditure is driven by an ageing population with spend per head being the lowest of all age groups. Retailers can target this consumer group more effectively by expanding their ranges to better support their needs, including plus size lingerie and support underwear.

55.7% of underwear shoppers say price is their biggest driver of spend in underwear. However, fit and quality also rank highly with shoppers looking for value for money, therefore retailers cannot simply rely on low prices to drive spend. Fit is particularly important for 16-24s, so young value retailers must consider introducing fitting services.

Reasons To Buy

What share does online have of the total UK underwear market and how will this change by 2020? What can retailers do to increase online penetration?

How has nightwear preformed over the last five years and which retailers have invested in the sector? How can retailers drive men's nightwear sales?

Which retailers will gain and lose market share in 2015 and will M&S maintain its market leading position? How are underwear specialists performing?

What share of underwear spend is on gifting? What make the most popular underwear gifts and which consumers should retailers target gifting ranges to?

Which age groups across men's and women's spend the most on underwear and where do they shop? How can retailers get the 55+s spending more?

1 Outlook

1.1 Overview

1.2 Main Conclusions

1.2.1 Spend on underwear rises GBP655.0m in five years to 2015

1.2.2 Value retailers support market growth and steal sales from M&S

1.2.3 Innovation in textiles, shapewear and better private label availability boost lingerie spend by 14.6%

1.2.4 Investment in fashion will contribute to 19.2% growth in five years to 2020

1.2.5 Retailers' improved offers will encourage more men's nightwear gifting purchases

1.2.6 65+s hold 19.9% of the UK underwear market, but spend per head is lowest

1.2.7 25-34 men and women spend the highest of all age groups

1.2.8 Clothing specialists will make the most share gains in the next five years

1.2.9 Online share of spend to rise to 25.4% in 2020, equivalent of GBP930.2m

1.2.10 Online channel can boost the gifting market

2 Recommendations

2.1 Overview

2.2 Main Conclusions

2.2.1 Target missed opportunities in underwear propositions

2.2.2 Satisfy the needs of underserved age groups

2.2.3 Understand consumers' underwear shopping habits and decision journey

2.2.4 Retailer recommendations

2.2.5 Seize gifting spend

2.2.6 Utilise online benefits

3 Market Size

3.1 Overview

3.2 Market Definition

3.2.1 Women's underwear

3.2.2 Men's underwear

3.3 Underwear Expenditure

3.4 Underwear Growth Versus Clothing

3.5 Product Category Segmentation

3.6 Sub-sector Segmentation

3.6.1 Women's underwear

3.6.2 Men's underwear

3.7 Age Segmentation

3.7.1 Total underwear

3.7.2 Women's underwear

3.7.3 Men's underwear

3.8 Spend per Head

3.8.1 Women's spend per head

3.8.2 Men's spend per head

3.9 Online Underwear Expenditure

4 Market Forecast

4.1 Overview

4.2 Market Definition

4.3 Underwear Expenditure

4.3.1 Market drivers

4.3.2 Positioning map

4.4 Underwear Growth Versus Clothing

4.5 Product Category Segmentation

4.6 Sub-sector Segmentation

4.6.1 Summary

4.6.2 Women's underwear

4.6.3 Men's underwear

4.7 Spend per Head

4.8 Online Underwear Expenditure

5 Channel Shares

5.1 Overview

5.2 Department Stores and Clothing Specialists to Grow Share

5.3 Online and Offline Underwear Expenditure

6 Market Shares

6.1 Overview

6.2 Underwear Market Shares

6.3 Women's Underwear Market Shares

6.4 Men's Underwear Market Shares

6.5 Key Operating Statistics

7 Sector Trends

7.1 Overview

7.2 Underwear Shopper Profile and Spending Habits

7.2.1 Shopper profile and penetration

7.2.2 Drivers of spend

7.2.3 Shopping habits

7.2.4 Preferred underwear destinations

7.2.5 Impulse versus necessity/replacement purchases

7.2.6 Spending habits

7.3 Online Underwear Shopping Habits

7.4 Gifting

7.4.1 Gifting Penetration and Expenditure

7.4.2 Bras make the most popular gifts

7.5 Underwear Shopping Habits by Retailer

7.5.1 M&S comes out on top

7.5.2 The march of the value players

7.5.3 Lack of specialists

7.5.4 Most shopped retailers among females and males

7.5.5 Retailer ratings

8 Methodology

8.1 Methodology: Channel Shares

8.2 Methodology: Market Shares

9 Appendix

9.1 About Verdict Retail

9.2 Disclaimer

Figure 1: Drivers and inhibitors of underwear expenditure, 2010-15e

Figure 2: Underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2005-15e

Figure 3: Three month average weekly earnings growth and inflation year-on-year (%), May 2012 to May 2015

Figure 4: Value retailer share of the total underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 5: Value retailer underwear expenditure growth versus total underwear (%), 2010-15e

Figure 6: Underwear inflation/deflation, volume and value growth (%), 2005-15e

Figure 7: Agent Provocateur's lower priced diffusion range L'Agent, 2015

Figure 8: Victoria's Secret Westfield Stratford store displaying the distinctive 'angel wings', 2015

Figure 9: Topshop lingerie with prints, various trims and sports-inspired design details, 2015

Figure 10: Ann Summers' 'Underwear as Outerwear' promotion on website, 2015

Figure 11: David Gandy for Autograph collection at M&S, 2015

Figure 12: M&S shapewear, 2015

Figure 13: Promotional image for Gok Wan's new shapewear collection for Sainsbury's, 2015

Figure 14: Underwear sales growth versus total UK clothing market (%), 2005-15e

Figure 15: Underwear volume growth versus total UK clothing (%), 2005-15e

Figure 16: Product category segmentation of UK underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 17: Change in product categories' performance (GBPbn), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 18: Sector segmentation of UK underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 19: Change in men's and women's underwear performance (GBPbn), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 20: Women's underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2010-15e

Figure 21: Product category segmentation of women's underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 22: Change in product categories' performance (GBPm), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 23: Men's underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2010-15e

Figure 24: Product category segmentation of men's underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 25: Change in product categories' performance (GBPm), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 26: Age segmentation of UK underwear market (GBPm), 2015e

Figure 27: Age segmentation of UK women's underwear market (GBPm), 2015e

Figure 28: Age segmentation of UK men's underwear market (GBPm), 2015e

Figure 29: Underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2010-15e

Figure 30: Women's underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2010-15e

Figure 31: Women's underwear spend per head by age (GBP), 2015e

Figure 32: Men's underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2010-15e

Figure 33: Men's underwear spend per head by age (GBP), 2015e

Figure 34: Online underwear market (GBPm) and year-on-year change (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 35: Online underwear expenditure as a proportion of the total underwear market (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 36: Drivers of underwear expenditure, 2015-20

Figure 37: Underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 38: Waist training trend, 2015

Figure 39: Underwear inflation/deflation, volume and value growth (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 40: Lidl spring/summer 2015 underwear range, 2015

Figure 41: Underwear positioning map, 2015

Figure 42: Underwear sales growth versus total UK clothing market (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 43: Underwear volume growth versus total UK clothing (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 44: Product category segmentation of UK underwear market (%), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 45: Marks & Spencer's collaborative nightwear ranges, 2015

Figure 46: Change in product categories' performance (GBPbn), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 47: Sector segmentation of UK underwear market (%), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 48: Change in men's and women's underwear performance (GBPbn), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 49: Women's underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 50: ASOS's fashion-led underwear offers, 2015

Figure 51: Product category segmentation of women's underwear market (%), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 52: Change in product categories' performance (GBPbn), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 53: Men's underwear expenditure (GBPbn) and year-on-year change (%), 2015e-20e

Figure 54: Product category segmentation of men's underwear market (%), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 55: Change in product categories' performance (GBPbn), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 56: Underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2015-20e

Figure 57: Women's underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2015-20e

Figure 58: Women's underwear spend per head by age (GBP), 2015e

Figure 59: Men's underwear spend per head in the UK (GBP) and year-on-year change (%), 2015-20e

Figure 60: Men's underwear spend per head by age (GBP), 2015e

Figure 61: Online underwear expenditure as a proportion of the total underwear market (%), 2015e and 2020e

Figure 62: UK underwear channel shares (%), 2014, 2015e and 2020e

Figure 63: UK underwear channel expenditure growth (%), 2020e on 2015e

Figure 64: H&M email marketing for underwear, 2015

Figure 65: UK underwear change in channel share (percentage point), 2015e-20e

Figure 66: UK underwear online and offline channel shares (%), 2014, 2015e and 2020e

Figure 67: UK underwear online and offline channel expenditure growth (%), 2020e on 2015e

Figure 68: Underwear market shares (%), 2010 and 2015e

Figure 69: Underwear market share winners and losers (percentage point), 2015e on 2014

Figure 70: Underwear Top 15 UK space growth versus sales growth (%), 2015/16e

Figure 71: Profile of underwear shoppers by gender, age and socioeconomic group (%), 2015

Figure 72: Underwear shopper profile versus clothing shopper profile by socioeconomic group (%), 2015

Figure 73: Underwear shopper profile versus clothing shopper profile by age (%), 2015

Figure 74: Penetration of underwear shoppers by gender, age and socioeconomic group (%), 2015

Figure 75: Top 10 factors that drove underwear shoppers to make a purchase in the last 12 months (%), 2015

Figure 76: Top 10 factors that drove underwear shoppers to make a purchase in the last 12 months, split by gender (%), 2015

Figure 77: Percentage of female underwear shoppers who said they purchase the product once every six months or more (%), 2015

Figure 78: Percentage of male underwear shoppers who said they purchase the product once every six months or more (%), 2015

Figure 79: Where underwear shoppers prefer to buy their underwear (%), 2015

Figure 80: Agent Provocateur's homepage, 2015

Figure 81: Gender segmentation of where underwear shoppers prefer to buy their underwear (%), 2015

Figure 82: Age segmentation of where underwear shoppers prefer to buy their underwear (%), 2015

Figure 83: Women's impulse versus necessity/replacement underwear purchases, split by category (underwear, nightwear, hosiery) (%), 2015

Figure 84: Men's impulse versus necessity/replacement underwear purchases, split by category (underwear, nightwear, hosiery) (%), 2015

Figure 85: Impulse versus necessity/replacement underwear purchases, split by age (%), 2015

Figure 86: Impulse versus necessity/replacement nightwear purchases, split by age (%), 2015

Figure 87: Impulse versus necessity/replacement hosiery purchases, split by age (%), 2015

Figure 88: Spending habits of underwear shoppers by age (i.e. percentage of shoppers in each age group who agree with the statement) (%), 2015

Figure 89: Spending habits of female underwear shoppers (%), 2015

Figure 90: Spending habits of male underwear shoppers (%), 2015

Figure 91: Consumers who agree that they prefer to shop online for underwear (%), 2015

Figure 92: boohoo and ASOS underwear offers, 2015

Figure 93: Factors that drove underwear shoppers to make a purchase online in the last 12 months, by gender (%), 2015

Figure 94: Top five factors that drove underwear shoppers to make a purchase online in the last 12 months, by age (%), 2015

Figure 95: Most bought underwear products online, by gender (%), 2015

Figure 96: Percentage of shoppers who bought underwear or nightwear as a gift over the past 12 months (%), July 2015

Figure 97: Average spend on gifting underwear or nightwear in the last 12 months by gender, age group and socioeconomic group (%), 2015

Figure 98: Favourite purchases of underwear and nightwear gifting shoppers in the last 12 months (%), 2015

Figure 99: Boux Avenue men's buying guide, July 2015

Figure 100: Percentage of underwear shoppers who bought underwear, lingerie or hosiery over the past 12 months by retailer (%), 2015

Figure 101: M&S underwear shopper penetration (%), 2015

Figure 102: Asda underwear shopper penetration (%), 2015

Figure 103: Primark underwear shopper penetration (%), 2015

Figure 104: Tesco underwear shopper penetration (%), 2015

Figure 105: Top five most shopped retailers for underwear, lingerie or hosiery in the last 12 months by each female age group (%), 2015

Figure 106: Top five most shopped retailers for underwear or hosiery in the last 12 months by each male age group (%), 2015

Figure 107: Percentage of underwear shoppers who buy most of their underwear, lingerie or hosiery at each retailer (%), 2015

Figure 108: Attribute winners for most shopped retailers for underwear, 2015

Table 1: Underwear sales (GBPm) and year-on-year change (%), 2005-15e

Table 2: Underwear sub-sector performance (GBPm), 2005-15e

Table 3: Underwear sales (GBPm) and year-on-year change (%), 2015e-20e

Table 4: Underwear sub-sector performance (GBPm), 2015e-20e

Table 5: UK underwear channels of distribution expenditure (GBPm) and share (%), 2014, 2015e and 2020e

Table 6: Top 15 underwear market shares (%), 2010-15e

Table 7: Top 15 women's underwear market shares (%), 2010-15e

Table 8: Top 15 men's underwear market shares (%), 2010-15e

Table 9: Top 15 underwear retailers' key UK operating statistics, 2015/16e

Table 10: Percentage of female underwear shoppers who said they purchase the product (%), 2015

Table 11: Percentage of male underwear shoppers who said they purchase the product (%), 2015

Table 12: Ratings for range for underwear shoppers' Top 10 most shopped retailers, 2015

Table 13: Ratings for price for underwear shoppers' Top 10 most shopped retailers, 2015

Table 14: Ratings for convenience for underwear shoppers' Top 10 most shopped retailers, 2015

Table 15: Ratings for quality for underwear shoppers' Top 10 most shopped retailers, 2015

Table 16: Ratings for service for underwear shoppers' Top 10 most shopped retailers, 2015

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